Ueno & Yanaka Art Guide - Visiting 8 Pioneering Art Spaces at the Forefront of the Local Scene

Ueno area is rich in museums and art institutions, including the National Museum of Western Art, Tokyo, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, and the Tokyo National Museum, making it a bustling hub. On the other hand, Yanaka, with its preserved old-town atmosphere, has seen an increase in cafes and select shops housed in renovated traditional houses. This gallery guide will focus on the Ueno and Yanaka areas, extending to nearby areas such as Asakusa and Komagome, introducing eight art spaces in total.

The 5th Floor

Located just a 5-minute walk from Nezu Station is The 5th Floor, established in February 2020. Utilizing a building that was originally a dormitory for employees, the gallery uses the rooms and balconies on the 5th floor as exhibition spaces. Unlike typical commercial galleries, it is characterized by being operated with a focus on independently curated projects. It hosts exhibitions, including A Grand Moment (2021), curated by Yusuke Okura featuring Ryuichi Ishikawa + Nana Mori, and Rooms to Breathe (2021), curated by the curator duo S_Z. With innovative and unique exhibitions, it’s a place worth visiting.

The University Art Museum, Tokyo University of the Arts

The Tokyo University of the Arts Art Museum is located on the Ueno campus of the Tokyo University of the Arts. The collection of materials and artworks began before the university's founding in 1949, and currently, the collection consists of approximately 30,000 items, including 23 national treasures and important cultural properties. In 1998, it was renovated from an art materials museum to the university art museum.

The museum hosts various exhibitions, including collection exhibitions such as Geidai Collection 2022 (2022), as well as special exhibitions with themes like Virtual Bodies- Absence-Presence in Media (2022). Additionally, the museum features unique projects, such as graduation exhibitions by students, offering a diverse range of programs characteristic of a university art museum.

SCAI The Bathhouse

After leaving Tokyo University of the Arts, let’s head towards Yanaka. SCAI The Bathhouse is a gallery space founded in 1993. The building was renovated from a 200-year-old public bathhouse called “Kashiwayu.” Despite its exterior, the interior is a neutral white cube and soft natural light streams in from high ceilings. Represented artists include Lee Ufan, Toshikatsu Endo, Mariko Mori, Kohei Nawa, Nobuko Tsuchiya, Anish Kapoor, Darren Almond, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, and He Xiangyu.

The gallery not only hosts exhibitions but also plays a leading role in Japan’s art scene through collaborations with art festivals and cultural facilities. Keep an eye out for exhibitions at related facilities like SCAI Park in Tennoz and SCAI Piramide in Roppongi.

Higure 17-15 CAS

Exiting Yanaka Ginza, let’s head towards the Nippori area, where temples abound. If you spot a building with a camel peering from the rooftop, that’s Higure 17-15 CAS. The name of the space is derived from its address and “cas,” meaning Contemporary Art Studio. Their exhibitions range from emerging artists like Mika Sakamoto’s Temperature at Night (2022) to established artists like Midori Mitamura’s Life is Made From Things I’ve Forgotten (2021). The first floor hosts such exhibitions, while the second floor serves as the office for a company that handles museum exhibition setups.

Since its start in 2002, the space has embraced keywords such as “openness,” “a place for encounters and exchanges,” and “building new networks.” During my visit, the atmosphere was friendly and welcoming.

Kurenboh Chohouin Buddhist Temple Gallery

Let’s deviate a bit from the route and extend our journey to the Asakusa-Kuramae area, not far from Ueno. Kurenboh is a small space built in 2006 within the precincts of Chohouin temple, providing a unique environment for individuals to confront artworks. The space originated from the broad question posed by the owner, Masayoshi Taniguchi, “What does it mean to see an artwork?” Upon entering, despite its white cube structure, the space may evoke a sense of comfort akin to one’s room due to its enclosed atmosphere. In recent years, exhibitions such as Photographic Object (2022), featuring works by Daisuke Yokota, Mayumi Hosokura, and Nerhol, and Rei Naito’s Praying for Tokyo (2021) have been held.

Exhibitions are irregularly organized two to three times a year and operate on a reservation basis, allowing one hour per person. Before visiting, it’s advisable to check the availability on the website.

Asakusa

Located between Asakusa Station and Tawaramachi Station, Asakusa is a curatorial project space housed in a renovated traditional Japanese wooden building. It opened in October 2015 and covers an area of 40 square meters. The space emphasizes collaboration among curators and invites attention-worthy artists from overseas, primarily organizing exhibitions focused on video works. Over time, they have introduced works by artists such as Thomas Hirschhorn, Yoko Ono, Pauline Boudry/Renate Lorenz, Anton Vidokle, Yoshua Okon, Hito Steyerl, and Ming Wong.

KayokoYuki

Finally, let me introduce two spaces in the Komagome area.

KayokoYuki opened its gallery space in 2015. Affiliated artists include Yohei Imamura, Shiho Kagabu, Yu Nishimura, Ayako Ono, Emi Otaguro, Hikari Suzuki, Daichi Takagi, and Michi Suwa. In recent years, they have organized exhibitions such as Masanobu Tomita’s Usen (2022) and Takashi Sakurai + Ichiro Isobe’s Tombstones, Albums, Phantoms (2021). Even before the space’s opening, KayokoYuki has been energetically involved in artist management and collaborations with exhibition facilities, actively operating as a gallery. They are known for their participation in art fairs both domestically and internationally, exhibiting annually at NADA Miami Beach since 2014 and Paris International since 2019.

Komagome Soko

Adjacent to Kayokoyuki is Komagome Soko, a facility established in 2016. It was created as an experimental space to provide a venue for realizing high-quality projects in the evolving Tokyo art scene. Exhibitions primarily feature works of emerging artists and are organized under curations such as Exhibition: (((((, (2022) curated by Tomohiro Kubota and Mio Harada, and Making Poetry with Solid Objects (2022), focusing on Edward Arlington and his students.

How was this gallery guide for you? I was impressed by the many galleries that, while familiar with the local area, showcased fresh exhibitions and innovative initiatives. Despite being in the heart of the city geographically, the areas around Ueno and Yanaka exude a tranquil atmosphere once you step away from the bustling stations. The distance between Komagome and Asakusa might be a bit much on foot, so exploring the area by bicycle could be a fun option.